Float Plane – Part 2
In my article Float Flying – Part 1, I wrote an article about all the basic components of a float plane. Now it’s time to put that useful information into practice. In this article, I shall outline the basics and provide tips for installing floats on a wheeled plane.
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Float Fly Plane Part 1
Let me start out by saying that I have very limited experience with float planes. This by no means makes me an expert in the subject of float planes and flying. In anticipation of writing this article, I have spent a great deal of time researching the subject. The majority of information I will providing was compiled from multiple sources and a little bit of conjecture. I cannot speak of certain subjects with firsthand experience, so I will do my best to provide information that seems logical or well thought out. Opinions will vary when it comes to equipment and methods. It is impossible to write about every nuance of float flying, but I will do my best to provide the information I have concluded to be relevant. This will be the first of a two part article. The first part will cover the plane itself and how to setup your plane. The second part will have to do with float installation and placement. You can read part 2 here.
Continue reading Making a Float Plane (1 of 2)
Glow Plug Recommedations
HOT GLOW PLUGS (for low nitro and FAI fuels)
Enya: # 3
Fox: Miracle, Standard, and R/C Long (2V)
Fireball: Hot (1.2-3.0V), and S-20 R/C Long
Fire Power: F 6 (warm), and F 7 (hot)
K&B: 1 L
McCoy: MC 55 R/C Long, MC 59, and MC 14 (very hot)
O.S. Engines: # 0, # 1, # 5
Rossi: R 1 (extra hot), and R 2
Sonic Tronics: Glowdevil # 300
Thunderbolt: R/C Long
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Trimming Your Airplane
There’s a lot more to getting your airplane trimmed, than just sliding the tabs on your transmitter. A correctly trimmed airplane is much more stable and fun to fly! When building a model airplane, it is important that the plane be balanced and wing incidences be set correctly. Take your time with these procedures! If you don’t have an incidence meter, borrow or buy one. This is the only correct way to check and set your incidence. Check the balance on the CG front to rear, and from left to right. One of the easiest ways to do this is by finding the CG on the fuselage, then finding the center, (left to right) of the plane. Screw in a small eye hook, and hang your plane. It should balance front to rear, and side to side. The engine thrust angle and the CG interact with each other. Double check both to make sure that they are set according to plans. Yaw and lateral balance create similar symptoms. If you are having problems in this area, check to see if the fin is straight. It’s far easier to make changes in the building stage than after the model is covered. If you follow the trim adjustment below, and still have problems, check for non centering servos, play in control linkages, and aileron and elevator gap.
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Trick with Weldwood Wood Glue
Written by Walt Smith
I have been putting together a TF-AT-6 for the past couple of months and have used a couple types of glue to put it together. The one glue I use for balsa to ply or wing sheeting is good old yellow carpenter glue. I use Weldwood II or III if I can find it. The one property I like is the ability to heat the dried glue with my steam iron, have it become very tacky and grab like it is fresh from the bottle. I discovered this many years ago, somehow or someone mentioned it to me. The best use of the glue is putting wing skins on ribs. I have not tried it over foam, as I think the heat would melt the foam under the skin. The trick is to apply the glue to all the ribs, weight it down and let dry. If after the glue has dried and you see the skin not attatched to a rib, just get out your cloths iron, turn it to as high as it will go, put a cotton pad down on the balsa to keep from burning it, hit it with the heat and press the sheeting down on the rib. With enough heat, the glue will become soft, and grab the glue on the sheeting or the rib below. Remove the iron, hold the wing skin down on the rib, and it should grab, giving you a strong glue joint. If you build, give it a try. I also use it to make balsa plywood if needed.
Written by Webmaster
When I got into flying electric planes, one of the first tasks I came across was programing my speed controller. I soon realized that some models and manufacturers have different options and settings. Most of them came with an instruction booklet (or a slip of paper), but didn’t really give great detail as to what each setting meant. I had to go to many differerent websites to find all the information I was lookign for. Setting a speed controller correctly will make your electric flight experience much more enjoyable.
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